Jumat, 27 Juli 2018

Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro c1923

Le Chevalier de la Nuit (Knight of the Night) was launched in France in 1923 by Parfums Ciro. It was introduced to America in 1924 according to some newspaper articles of the day. Parfums Ciro was founded in 1921 in New York, at first obtaining all its fragrances from Gabilla in Paris, already bottled. These included 'Doux Jasmin', 'Chevalier de la Nuit' and 'Maskee', all issued in 1923.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Though there are no published notes on this composition, I did have some old empty bottles years ago, and I distinctly remember them smelling like jasmine, gardenia and tuberose.

In old advertisements, the perfume was described as "an exotic, fascinating fragrance whose romantic overtones are beautifully expressed by its name, a lasting perfume, and particularly adaptable to furs. It has a singular sweetness, not found in most heavy odors, and while it is a mysterious, intriguing and essentially a formal perfume, it may be worn at any time of day."
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes: tuberose, gardenia, jasmine
  • Base notes:

Hearst's, 1928:
"But be she queen or maid, rich or poor, she wants with all her heart to be remembered. Chevalier de la Nuit. the "Knight of the Night", is a scent of singular individuality, conceived and sealed by Ciro, in Paris. In its fragrance lurks a loveliness quite new. It is haunting, yet elusive — sensuous, yet exquisite."

Hearst's, 1928:
"Ciro's Parfum — Chevalier de la Nuit, the "Knight of the Night". . . a strange, delicate scent."

Bottles:


A 1928 ad:
"Chevalier de la Nuit from Ciro is a perfume for the sophisticate. Smartly bottled and cased $10. And the toilet water is $8.50."

Garden & Home Builder, 1928:
"Ciro offers in this attractive black bottle his famous 'Chevalier de la Nuit

American Druggist - Volumes 79-80, 1929:
"Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit One of the most surprising new products of recent months has been Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit. Offered first about the Christmas season in department and a few drug stores at $4.50 it showed such sales that manufacturers are offering it generally to the trade. The bottle - a romantic affair, - stands nearly a foot in height and is fashioned in France of hand-burnished glass. The stopper is a replica of a plumed helmet . The bottle duplicates the body armor of a knight of the crusades."



The bottle carries out the cavalier theme, in the shape of a suit of armor, a heart in its center, with its stopper a visored, beplumed helmet. It's unusual bottle made it particularly appropriate for Christmas gift giving. The bottles came in black opaque glass, clear and frosted glass and also clear and frosted glass with gilded highlights. Designed by Guy T.Gibson, the bottle was patented on Nov. 17, 1925.






The bottles were designed by Julien Viard and may have been made by Depinoix. Ciro's founder, Guy T. Gibson (JS Wiedhopf) filed a design patent for the bottle and was granted patent number 68,779 on November 17, 1925.


The parfum bottles, in clear and frosted glass, came in various sizes:
  • 7 1/2" tall
  • 5 3/8" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall
  • 4 " tall
  • 3 1/4" tall
  • 2 3/8" tall

The black frosted glass bottle came in two sizes:
  • 4 1/2" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall





An Eau de Toilette bottle, in clear and frosted glass, was slightly different from the parfum flacon, and it had a shield shaped label, this bottle stood around 7 1/4" tall.

Starting in 1931, a small cylindrical, clear glass bottle was also used, it had a small boule stopper made of clear glass and a tiny rectangular label. This bottle held 1 oz of parfum, stood 9cm tall, and was also used for other Ciro perfumes.

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"CIRO'S exquisite perfume odors, Doux Jasmin, Chevalier de la Nuit, Gardenia Sauvage, as well as an eau de cologne, have been developed in toilet waters known as "Eau de Ciro". The cone shaped bottle decorated with a silver top and label forms an attractive addition to bath shelf and dressing table."

In 1938, these Eau de Ciro toilet waters were being presented in eight sided glass bottles with screw caps and a long rectangular label down the front of the bottle. Available in Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage and Doux Jasmin. The Eau de Ciro was also available in a matching atomizer bottle.

Fate of the Fragrance:


It's exportation to the USA appears to have been halted in 1936 and was unavailable during World War II, it was brought back as late as 1948, as it was advertised as "a recent arrival from Paris" and "Ciro's dashing perfume Chevalier de la Nuit, just returned in its elegant black bottle to make Christmas and linger with her all year long" according to two newspaper articles. I can not find any other newspaper reference to it after 1950

Cue, 1948:
"The return of one of France's favorite perfumes, Chevalier de la Nuit, is heralded for the Christmas season. This is, of course, the famous Ciro scent whose bottle is a suit of armor and its stopper a visor with a plumed helmet. This will be available for your Christmas favorite in one ounce bottles, only at $15."

The perfume was still being sold in 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.

Photo credits: Legendary Auctions, ebay seller anteequity

Kamis, 26 Juli 2018

Gardenia Sauvage by Ciro c1929

Gardenia Sauvage by Ciro: launched in 1929.  The name means "Wild Gardenia" in French.


So what does it smell like? It was a gardenia soliflore.


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1941.


Hearst's International Combined with Cosmopolitan, Volume 87, 1929:
"GARDENIA SAUVAGE. Paris originates — a new charm ... A charm which even Fashion, dominant arbiter that she is, can never out-mode. It is more alluring than youth; more enticing than chic; more intriguing than wit. It is the charm that brings remembrance! Gardenia Sauvage speaks to the  heart and woos Remembrance. It is Ciro’s newest perfume  a revelations even to those who know and love the gardenia."

Harper's Bazaar - Volume 71, Part 2, 1937:
"TROIS NOTES" Ciro's trio, "Trois Notes," a symphony of their famous scents "Doux Jasmin," "Gardenia Sauvage," "Camelia du Maroc" and "Surrender" or "Reflexions." 

 Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1937:
"Ciro of Paris presents the flower pot shaped Poudre de Toilette in three floral odors: Gardenia Sauvage, Doux Jasmin, and Camelia du Maroc."

Rabu, 25 Juli 2018

Ambre de Jadis by Ciro c1923

Ambre de Jadis by Ciro: launched in 1923.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? I am assuming it was an oriental type perfume with a hefty dose of ambergris.

Bottles:




Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1932.


Senin, 23 Juli 2018

Danger by Ciro c1938

Danger by Ciro: launched in 1938.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was described as a rich, heavy, very spicy sweet, floral oriental fragrance for women with a dominant lavender note. It was advised to be worn during winter.
  • Top notes: bergamot, honey, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, apricot
  • Middle notes: mint, pepper, tuberose, orange blossom, violet, heliotrope, lavender, carnation, lilac
  • Base notes: wormwood, oakmoss, musk, orris, tobacco, tonka bean, sandalwood, benzoin, ambergris, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver


Business Week, 1938;
"Our Times : Danger! Ciro, of Paris, will introduce its "Danger" perfume to the American market, using Guy T. Gibson, Inc., as distributor."

The Stage, 1938:
"Ciro's Danger, that bold, saucy perfume that changes its aroma according to the person wearing it, and comes in a cut crystal bottle."

The New Yorker, 1940:
" Ciro: Danger, a lush winter scent, and the lighter Surrender."

Fashions of the Hour, 1940:
"Ciro's Danger is a fitting challenge to every woman's loveliness. It's an audacious and exciting scent in a stunning 1-ounce bottle. $12."

Mademoiselle, 1949:
"No danger in giving Ciro's Danger perfume, everyone loves it. Now in a half-ounce sire, $7.50."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Danger was discontinued by the  early 1970s, when Parfums Ciro went out of business.


Minggu, 22 Juli 2018

Reflexions by Ciro c1933

Reflexions by Ciro: launched in 1933.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was classified as a slightly aldehydic aromatic fougere fragrance for women, very fernlike and mossy. Woodsy-Mossy: sometimes referred to as herbal or "forest blend." A perfume from this category might contain sandalwood, rosewood, cedarwood, or balsam, perhaps combined with oak moss, fern, or other plants and herbs to attain an "outdoorsy" fragrance that is best appreciated on the wearer
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, spices, lavender
  • Middle notes: iris, geranium, carnation, fern, orris, opoponax
  • Base notes: tonka, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, benzoin, ambergris, oakmoss


Bottles:


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued.

Sabtu, 21 Juli 2018

Acclaim by Ciro c1950

Acclaim by Ciro: launched in 1950.



Fragrance Composition:




So what does it smell like? It was classified as a spicy floral forest blend fragrance for women. Woodsy-Mossy: sometimes referred to as herbal or "forest blend." A perfume from this category might contain sandalwood, rosewood, cedarwood, or balsam, perhaps combined with oak moss, fern, or other plants and herbs to attain an "outdoorsy" fragrance that is best appreciated on the wearer
  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: spices, flowers
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, musk, vetiver, cedar


Woman's Home Companion, 1950:
"Ciro's exciting new Acclaim perfume (l oz). $12.50."

Pacific Drug Review, 1950:
"ACCLAIM PERFUME Parfums Ciro, Inc. New York City, N. Y. Acclaim is the first new fragrance in nine years by this manufacturer. Packaged in bottles of classic design, priced to retail at $5."

Motion Picture, 1951:
"Perk up your lagging end-ol-winter ego with a new perfume. Lots of new ones have appeared —and must be worn to be appreciated. Acclaim, Ciro's first new perfume in years, is a beguiling fragrance destined to keep you in the limelight."
The New Yorker, 1952:
"Acclaim: She's in the spotlight, without seeking it— everything about her attracts applause and admiration. ... She certainly deserves Acclaim!, Guessing will get you nowhere! If it were ... All Ciro perfumes in several sizes."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.